GOOD ARTICLE ABOUT
HEAT AND YOUR DOGS...
HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR DOGS TO PREVENT HEAT STROKE AND WHAT TO DO IF YOU SUSPECT
YOUR DOG IS HAVING A PROBLEM FROM IT
Avoiding Heat Related Injuries in Dogs
BY: Nate Baxter DVM
Feel free to cross post, use in club
newsletters, etc, without any further permission.
The first thing that needs to be understood is
that dogs and people are different enough that most of the info cannot cross
lines. I do not profess to know what the appropriate procedures for people
other than what I learned in first aid.
Dogs do not lose enough electrolytes thru
exercise to make a difference, but if the dog gets truly into heat stroke
thephysiology changes will make them necessary. BUT oral replacement at that
point is futile, they need IV and lots of it.
Cooling: Evaporative cooling is the most
efficient mean of cooling. However, in a muggy environment, the moisture will
not evaporate so cooling does not happen well. I cool with the coldest water I
can find and will use ice depending on the situation. The best way is to run
water over the dog, so there is always fresh water in contact. When you
immerse a dog in a tub, the water trapped in the hair coat will get warm next
to the dog, and act as an insulator against the cool water and cooling stops.
If you can run water over the dog and place it in front of a fan that is the
best. Misting the dog with water will only help if you are in a dry
environment or in front of a fan. Just getting the dog wet is not the point,
you want the water to be cool itself, or to evaporate.
For MOST situations all you will need to do is
get the dog in a cooler environment, ie shade, or in the cab of the truck with
the air conditioning on (driving around so the truck does not overheat and the
AC is more efficient). Up to a couple of years ago, I was very concerned about
my dogs getting too hot in the back of my black pickup with a black cap. New
white truck fixed a lot of that problem. When I had one dog I just pulled the
wire crate out of the car and put it in some shade and hopefully a breeze. But
having
2 dogs and running from one stake to another, that was not feasible. So I
built a platform to put the wire crates on, this raises the dog up in the
truck box where the air flow is better. Then I placed a 3 speed box fan in
front blowing on the dogs with a foot of space to allow better airflow. I
purchased a power inverter that connects to the battery and allows the 3 speed
fan to run from the truck power. It has an automatic feature that prevents it
from draining the battery. When I turned that fan on medium I would find that
the dogs where asleep, breathing slowly and appeared very relaxed and
comfortable in a matter of 20 minutes or less, even on very hot muggy days.
Alcohol: I do carry it for emergencies. It is
very effective at cooling due to the rapid evaporation. It should be used when
other methods are not working. You should be on your way to the veterinarian
before you get to this point. We recommend using rubbing alcohol, which is
isopropyl alcohol, not ethyl, for those of you not aware. So do not try to
drink it. Alcohol should be used on the pads and lower feet area where there
is little more than skin and blood vessels over the bones. Use a little bit
and let it evaporate, you can use too much as some is absorbed through the
skin. There are concerns about toxicity, but you have to get the temperature
down.
***** UPDATE NOTE-alcohol has fallen out of
favor with ER specialists, use it only as a last ditch effort if nothing else
works.******
I purchased those cooling pads, but found that
the dogs would not lay on them. I would hold them on the back of a dog that
just worked to get a quick cool, but have not use them for years. I also
bought a pair of battery operated fans but found them pretty useless. Spend
your money on the power inverter and get a real fan.
Watching temperature: If you feel your dog is
in danger of heat injury, check its temp and write it down. Keep checking the
temp every 3 minutes. I recommend getting a "rectal glass thermometer. The
digital ones for the drugstore I have found to be very unreliable, Don't
forget to shake it down completely each time, sounds silly, but when are
worried about your companion, things tend to get mixed up. This is VERY
IMPORTANT**once the temp STARTS to drop, STOP ALL COOLING EFFORTS. The cooling
process will continue even though you have stopped. If the temp starts at
106.5, and then next time it drops to 105.5, stop cooling the dog, dry it off,
and continue monitoring. You will be amazed how it continues to go down. If
you do not stop until the temp is 102, the temp will drop way too low. I
cannot emphasize this point enough.
When the dog is so heated that it is panting
severely, only let it have a few laps of water. Water in the stomach does not
cool the dog; you just need to keep the mouth wet so the panting is more
effective. Do not worry about dehydration until the temp has started down. A
dog panting heavily taking in large amounts of water is at risk of bloat. Due
to the heavy panting they will swallow air, mixed with a large amount of water
they can bloat. Once the temp is going down and panting has slowed to more
normal panting then allow water. The dog will re-hydrate it self after temp is
normal. If the dog has a serious problem and even though you have gotten the
temp normal, get the dog to a vet, as it can still need IV fluids and some
medication. Also, a case of heat stroke can induce a case of hemorrhagic
gastroenteritis (not parvo), with a ton of very bloody diarrhea and a lot of
fluid and electrolyte loss. These cases need aggressive treatment.
The best method of treatment is prevention.
Learn to watch your dog, and see the changes in the size of the tongue, and
how quickly it goes down. Learn your dogs' response to the different
environments, and be careful when you head south for an early season hunt test
or trial. I have been to Nashville at the end of May, only 5 hours away, but
the difference in temp and humidity did affect the dogs as they were used to
more spring weather in Ohio. Try different things in training to help the dog
cool and learn what works better. Another very important point==> Do not swim
your hot dog to cool it then put in put in a box/tight crate. Remember,
evaporation can not take place in a tight space, and the box will turn into a
sauna and you will cook your dog. Carry a stake out chain, and let the dog
cool and dry before putting it up.
I know this is a bit long, but hopefully this
is easy to understand and helps provide some useful information.
Remember: Prevention, learn your dog. It is
worth the time and effort.
____________ ____
Nate Baxter, DVM Lebanon, OH